Days 5 and 6 of 2026 Republic of Georgia Trip

Days 5 and 6 in Georgia would be spent in and near the city of Kutaisi. On Day 5, we visited a nearby church that had been built in the 11th century. Because it was a Sunday, there was a service. We were allowed to quietly enter. It was a honor to watch locals take the sacrament. Afterwards, we left and crossed into western Georgia with a first stop at Master Qvevri-Maker Zaliko Bojadze’s studio.

I always wondered how these clay vessels, some of which hold 3,000 liters of wine, are actually made. There are only about 20 artisans like Zaliko who make these vessels, which are made by hand over several months layer by layer. We all agreed that it was fascinating to watch him work on a Qvervri. It was very zen. Zaliko exports these marvelous creations all over the world. 

Afterwards, we loaded onto our comfortable van and headed to Rdzlebi Restaurant for lunch with Chef Keto Puturidze and a wine tasting with her husband, winemaker Gogita Makaridze.  We stayed three hours at their  farm. They were a very engaging couple. The husband, Gogita spoke very little English, but his demeanor and mannerisms reminded me of my favorite nephew Jonathan. Before I left, I told our guide Tamara to translate that statement to Gogita. You could tell he was moved.  We hugged and I headed for our van, not thinking too much more about it. 

Once in the van, I pulled my cap over my eyes to get some shut-eye during the long trip to Kutaisi. I felt someone tapping my arm. I lifted the cap and there was Gogita holding a bottle of wine. He gestured that it was a gift to me. I pointed to let him know I would follow him off of the van. When we got off I hugged him and thanked him by tapping my heart with my fist. He did the same. I almost cried as I got back into the van holding a gift that I will treasure. I do not know when I will drink this bottle, but it will be with someone I love – maybe my nephew Jonathan. 

When we got to the hotel, I tapped out and skipped dinner. I could not eat another big meal. So, I had some trail mix, some dates I had bought in Turkey, and an apple. 

I stayed up to watch the first match of the knockout round of the World Cup, which featured Canada and South Africa. Canada made it to the round of 16 for the first time by scoring the winning goal at the very end of the match in extra minutes! Because the game was being announced in Georgian, I did not understand a single word, not that it mattered. I have grown to enjoy soccer very much, especially the World Cup.

The next morning we visited the open market in Kutaisi before heading out to visit the Vani Archeological Museum. Vani, which seems to be in the middle of nowhere, was the site of a very important city from the 6th century BC. to the first century B.C., at which time the Romans sacked the city. In fact, the museum itself, which was finished in 2006, sits next to the site of the ancient city, which is where most of the artifacts in the museum came from. This museum, although small, was truly amazing. Evidently, I am not the only one who thinks so. It has won several awards including the 2023 European Museum of the Year award. 

After visiting the museum, we had lunch and another wine tasting at yet another small family restaurant and winery. After lunch we visited Martvili Canyon for a beautiful short hike. We ended the day with dinner at Chef Keto Ninidze’s Oda Marani with Megrelian dishes and Keto’s wines. We then returned to the hotel where I watched Brazil beat Japan in the second knockout match of the World Cup. And like the match the previous night, Brazil scored the winning goal after the 90th minute in extra minutes. These matches have been very competitive. 

I was not able to stay awake for the Germany- Paraguay match as it started at 1 a.m. Georgian time. Unfortunately for my friend Rolf, who is German, and my son Jack, who is a German Soccer fan, Germany was upset when the match went to penalty kicks. When I woke up at 7 a.m.
this morning, the Morocco-Netherlands match was in extra time. So, I watched the end of that match. Morocco, which had made it to the semi-finals four years ago, won the match on penalty kicks when their Goal Keeper blocked the last Dutch penalty kick. Sorry this post is longer. I had too much time the next day during my six-hour van ride through the mountains of Svaneti to the mountain town of Mestia, famous as a ski and hiking area.