Day 7 in Georgia – Up the Mountain to Mestia
On Day 7 (June 30th) of our trip in Georgia we left Kutaisi and began our 6-hour journey North to the mountains of Svaneti and the city of Mestia, which sits fairly close to the Russian border. Because of the mountainous terrain, we had to first travel west to within 15 miles of the Black Sea and the port city of Poti. Located in the region of Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti, Poti is near the site of the ancient Greek colony of Phasis, from which it derives its name. As a major port city, it is also home to the primary naval base of the Georgian Navy. See map.
Being so far west we were also not far from the popular resort town of Batumi, Georgia’s 2nd largest city. Located on the Black Sea in the southwest corner of Georgia, it sits12 miles north of the border with Turkey. Batumi has a subtropical climate with an economy that revolves around tourism and gambling, and is especially popular with Russians.
About 2.5 hours into our drive, we drove through the city of Zudidi, which is within 10 miles of the Abkhazia and Georgian border (see map). Remember the border between Abkhazia and Georgia is closed due to the conflict between the two regions because Russia continues to fuel a separatist movement from Georgia within the Abkhaz region. As a result, Abkhazia has become a client state of Russia, creating a closed border and a region of conflict ever since.
This is relevant because if Russia does not succeed in securing total victory in Ukraine, the second best outcome for them is to do the same thing with the Donbas region of Ukraine that they did with the Abkhaz region of Georgia. Now you know why Ukraine is adamant in not letting Russia control the Donbas region, which would creat another Client State for Russia with ethic, cultural and political conflict, with ethic Ukrainians being expelled or worse.
Once out of Zudidi, we passed a cemetery that is unique to the Samegrelo region and culture. The graves are housed in structures that resemble small houses. (See photo). Relatives would congregate in these structures to honor the deceased with Supras. In addition we also passed the largest blueberry field I have ever seen with workers busily harvesting the crop by hand. According to one of our fellow travelers who has spent some time in Georgia, this very successful blueberry industry was created due to an American.
As we began our ascent into the mountains of the Svaneti region towards some of the highest mountain peaks of the Greater Caucuses Mountains, we pass over beautiful gorges and climb to spots with spectacular views. We also pass by the huge Enguri Reservoir, which has the 7th largest hydro dam in the world. For anyone prone to car sickness, this would ride have been a rough trip. Think of it as a much longer, but “slightly less severe” version of the “Road to Hana” in Maui, a harrowing road that I got to experience with Elizabeth and our friends Jeff and Denise a few years ago.
On this road we met a camper vehicle going in the opposite direction, who motioned for our excellent driver, Ramaz, to back up. Ramaz did not. Instead he cleverly navigated our vehicle inches from the rock overhang on our right side and the camper driven by an idiot on the left. After he did so, we all gave Ramaz a round of applause. I should have taken a photo, but I was mesmerized by the moment.
The first road in this region was built in the 1930’s. Because of the mountainous terrain, this part of Georgia was never conquered by the Mongols, Ottomans or Persians. Needless to say, the people here are independent minded and self-sufficient.
About an hour from our destination of Mestia, we stopped for a traditional lunch with a local family in the village of Etseri. We also saw how Svanuri Salt blend is made. Afterwards we drive another hour to Metsia where check into the Lahili Hotel, which is where we will spend three nights. The first thing I notice is the number of Chinese staying at this hotel.
