Dakotas 2026 – Days 4 and 5 – The First National Monument and Visiting the 50th
Day 4 was spent in Wyoming. When I planned this trip, I did not intend on going to eastern Wyoming. After all, this is a Dakotas Trip. However, because I arrived early the first day, I had extra time. And after I learned that Devils Tower was the first National Monument established by Teddy Roosevelt in 1906 and that it was in the direction I needed to go anyway, I decided to fit it in. And so, today was Wyoming and Devils Tower Day. Unlike the terrain in South Dakota, the terrain here, on the edge of the Black Hills, is decidedly different looking, with higher mountains. It is also beautiful – in a different way.
Located in the western edge of Black Hills National Forrest, Devils Tower is impressive. Rising like a monolith out of the earth, it is 1,267 feet above the Belle Fourche River, standing 867 feet from summit to base. Just as fascinating as the butte itself is the terrain around it. My 3-mile hike around the base was enjoyable because I hiked through rock gardens, meadows, and groves of trees – and over various rocks formations. And some of the views to the valley and river below were spectacular, rivaling the views of Devils Tower itself as I viewed it from various vantage points. Although the butte got its name from a faulty translation on the Native American name for it, I think it fits, because like the Devil, it takes many forms, depending on which direction you are viewing it.
After Devils Tower, I drove to the small town of Hulett. And on the recommendation of Marty and Maureen, whom I had met the night before at dinner in Custer, I visited Bob at Bob’s Fine Art and Rogue Gallery. A combination of store, art gallery and museum, it did not disappoint. And neither did Bob. I ended up buying one of his etchings. After visiting Hulett, I drove on to Spearfish, SD, where I would spend the night.
Day 5 of my trip in the Dakotas was spent mostly in Spearfish Canyon, which is stunningly beautiful. If I divided my day into separate chunks, there would be three. The first would be time spent in Spearfish, South Dakota. The second would be the 3 Hour drive from Spearfish to North Dakota. And the third chunk would be my time spent at the end of the day in Teddy Roosevelt National Park and watching the sunset at Wind Cave Trail.
Yesterday, or hump day on this trip, had been a little melancholy for me. Maybe it’s because I miss Elizabeth, or maybe it’s because I left my charger to my iPad in my hotel room in Custer – or could it be that I am reading two sad books – The River of Doubt and The Heartbeat of Wounded Knee right now? Or maybe I miss having a hiking companion, and it’s catching up to me. Or maybe I am just tired. Not every moment of every day on a trip like this is an emotional high. Quite honestly, it is not sustainable. But what I think is important is to accept these periods for what they are and identify contributing factors, if there are any. So, as I watched the sun rise from my room at the Hampton Inn in Spearfish this morning with a cup of coffee in my hand, I already started feeling better. And after some self-care (Yoga), a splendid Hampton Inn breakfast, some hiking in Spearfish Canyon, I was as “Right as Rain” – well almost. I needed conversation.
I had one regret from yesterday – not connecting through conversation with a woman whom I helped as she struggled to take a selfie with her dog. The woman thanked me profusely and I walked on. It was the perfect opportunity to chat for a moment and hear a little of her story – a missed opportunity to connect with another human being. I would not make that mistake today.
Armed with my resolution, I had three beautiful connections on Day 5 of my trip. During breakfast I connected with a woman in her late 60’s. From Chicago, Linda was traveling here with her husband. A self-professed chili girl, she recommended a restaurant – Killian’s- that she judged as the best chili ever. It was Bison Black Bean Chili. So, later in the day I checked it out and it was probably the best chili I have ever tasted. Thank you, Linda, for the warm conversation over breakfast and the recommendation.
My second encounter occurred during my second hike today on 76 Trail in Spearfish Canyon, which goes straight up the mountain. I met two sisters at the Summit. The sisters, Kayla and Angie from Nebraska, take an annual trip together. Angie had just become a grandmother, and she was so excited. Thank you, Angie, for taking my photo doing my pose on top of the mountain.
My third encounter occurred after my third hike in the canyon. I stopped at Spearfish Canyon Lodge for a beer. A young woman in her mid-20’s served me. Originally from East South Dakota, Talia moved here three months ago. Talia, thank you for talking to me and giving me the perspective of a young woman on so many issues.
Creating an opening for people to talk and share a small part of their stories brought me joy. Taking photographs of others during my hikes also brought me joy. But I do have one regret from today. During my first hike I was taking a selfie on a bridge. A couple came by and the husband asked if he could take my photo. I declined his offer. When replaying the scene, I realized he was a little disappointed. I react the same way when people reuse my offer – not a big disappointment, just a little one, but still a disappointment. So, when someone offers to take your photo, let them – unless it is a single male who looks shifty! Most people are offering to take your photo because it brings them joy. So let someone have their joy, especially if it’s an old bald guy with a grey beard who seems a little hyper.
After my lunch of Bison Black Bean Chili, I made the 3-hour drive north from Spearfish, SD to Medora, ND in time to see the sunset on Wind Canyon Trail inside Theadore Roosevelt National Park. It was stunning. And I saw some Bison up close! Afterwards, I drove the 35 miles east to Dickinson, SD, where I would spend my evenings for the next three nights. And I have now officially visited all 50 states of our great country!
