Italy 2026 – Days 5 and 6 of Trip

I will spend more time describing these two days because they may have been my favorite two days of the trip. We started Day 3 on the Via Francigena with an early breakfast and began our 14-mile walk from BUONCONVENTO to San Quirico d’Orcia. As we ascended higher on white gravel roads into the hills of southern Tuscany, we encountered lots of cyclists heading in the opposite direction. Most were in groups with a single cyclist here and there. Davis described the scene best when he quipped, “cyclists beyond counting!”

During one of our water breaks in a shaded area, a single cyclist stopped near us. We found out that he was from Berlin. We asked, “why all the cyclists?” He explained that it was an actual bike race with over 6,000 participants – hence all the cyclists we saw in BUONCONVENTO the previous evening!

Despite all the bikes, we were having a good time. After six miles or so we entered the famous Brunello wine region. This entire region, known as Val d’Orcia, was recently recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its unique culture and food. This region also contains the Orcia Wine Trail, which passes through the town of Torrenieri, where we stopped for lunch. 

Like many of the cyclists we saw stopping in Torrenieri for lunch, I was totally prepared to stop at one of the pizzerias or deli shops for nourishment. However, Davis suggested a restaurant located on the edge of town with very good online reviews. So, we went there. Because we had hiked at a brisk pace, we arrived in Torrenieri at 11:30, 30 minutes before this restaurant opened. Undaunted, Davis asked in his broken Italian if we could order cold beers and drink them at one of their outside tables until they served lunch. Yes, we could! Voila, we were set!

Having been refreshed by the beers, we were ready for some good food and wine when we sat down to eat. With a limited menu, we ordered the pasta and beef tripe dishes and a half liter of the red table wine. That meal will be remembered as one of the best lunches I have had in my entire life. 

Having walked a hilly 10 miles, our honestly earned appetite was rewarded with this exquisite meal. These dishes and wine would be better than many we would have in Rome. And what made it even more special was the fact that we were enjoying this food with locals – not a single American tourist around for miles. When I went to the register to pay the bill, using mostly sign language, I asked the server where the wine was from.  She picked up a large wine box and communicated that the wine was very local.  I found out how local when we passed the sign for the winery less than half a mile out of town. I will never poke fun of boxed wine ever again. Now I understood why this area has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its unique culture and food. This was the experience I had hoped for…

After our memorable lunch we continued our hike through more wineries and iconic landscapes. Soon after leaving Torrenieri, we caught up with two pilgrims, who accompanied us to our destination of San Quirico d’Orcia. Italian bankers from Milan, Walter and Luca were walking from Lucca to Montefiascone.

After one final long climb to our destination for the day, we said our goodbyes to our new-found friends and entered San Quirico d’Orcia, a delightful walled town.  Much larger than Monteriggioni, it had a similar charm. The first building we saw was a marvelous church, which we entered for some coolness and quiet time for reflection. I had not realized how hot the trail was and how close I was to heat exhaustion until I sat down and became queasy and lightheaded for a few minutes.  And the days would get even warmer during the rest of our pilgrimage. I cannot even imagine doing this hike in July or August.

After finding our hotel, we were offered refreshments in their beautiful garden while our rooms were made ready. Our hotel, the Palazzo del Capitano, would be the nicest property we would stay in with a beautiful swimming pool and elegant garden.  Later, we would take advantage of this peaceful and elegant spot to enjoy Gin and Tonics and Negronis before another memorable meal in Tuscany. 

Our dinner at the Hotel’s restaurant included steak Florentine, accompanied by a bottle of great wine, and wonderful conversation with an Australian family who were sitting at the table next to us. We finished off our dinner with Grappa and Amoro. 

San Quirico d’Orcia itself is known for its well-preserved architecture and gardens. This historic village with probable Etruscan origins is another gem with its architecture, including several medieval parish churches. Nestled in the beautiful countryside we had just walked – with olive groves, vineyards and oak woods – this Tuscan town is said to be an absolute must-visit. And I agree. I would come back to spend more time in this small elegant town. 

The next morning, we began our “Long Walk”.  After San Quirico d’Orcia, many pilgrims make the small village of Gallina their next stop, which is a very hilly 10-mile hike, and then tackle the 2,000-foot climb and another 10 miles to RADICOFANI the next day. Because we were staying at a beautiful farm 2.5 miles short of Radiofani, I decided to combine the two stages. Doing so made this day of hiking our most challenging day by far. The hike was not only long, but also had dramatic elevation changes with a total elevation change of about 3,000 feet. 

A highlight for me during this beautiful and dramatic hike was passing through the small hamlet of Vignoni early on. Perched on a hill with its tower, medieval buildings and church, it was once a fortified stronghold – the type of place one would never see without cycling or walking on the Via Francigena. As I strolled around the premises, Davis spent some time in the small church, as he would in most of the small churches we would pass by. 

There is another reason why Vignoni stands out. As we left this small hamlet via a beautiful narrow trail lined with beautiful fauna, I smelled more fragrances than I can adequately describe. And this brings me to another aspect of this pilgrimage that I need to try to explain – although I know I will not do so adequately. How do you convey that the natural beauty one sees is possible surpassed by the aromas and fragrances one smells? But time and time again, Davis and I would exclaim to each other, “Do you smell that!” Or we might just say, “Wow, that is amazing!” And we were not talking about what we were seeing.

And this little trail that we navigated as we left Vignoni will stick in my mind’s eye as much for what my nose experienced as my eyes. This combination of seeing, smelling, hearing, touching through walking and even through tasting the salt on your lips due to your exertion created a total visceral and immersive experience. In effect, I felt alive. And this is my feeble attempt to explain what it felt like to hike the Via Francigena during the height of late Spring and early summer in Southern Tuscany. 

Like our hikes the first three days, this trail also included numerous hills, vineyards, and olive groves, passing by small farms and traditional villas. Because we had so many long climbs – they were long because the hills were larger and spaced further apart, no other day of our hike would offer the incredible vistas that we saw on this day.  And of the many photos I would take, none would capture the majestic nature of this land. Davis said it well when he said that none of the photos of Tuscany that he had seen through the years prepared him for the majestic views that kept changing as we walked that day. Sometimes we would look back behind us and recognize a hill that we had just been on top of an hour ago. It would look so far away – and you would find it difficult to process that fact. Even though this day was the most difficult from a hiking standpoint, this day would end up being Davis’s favorite day on the trail. 

Our hike on this day would end in dramatic fashion with a final 800-foot ascent to our hotel, the extraordinary Agriturismo La Selvella. Hot and exhausted, we were more than ready to enjoy the cold water of the property’s beautiful pool, perched on the edge of a beautiful cliff with views of Olive Groves down below. 

Called a typical Tuscan farming hamlet, La Selvella is anything but that. Steeped in history and made up of three stone farmhouses which have been carefully restored, each farmhouse has been divided into rooms with ensuite bathrooms and apartments. Each apartment has its own private entrance and air conditioning, which we were very thankful for. Our apartment, where one of the two original families lived, was located above the main dining area. In the heart of the hamlet there is a square with an ancient ash tree under which breakfast and dinner is served in the summer.  And this is where we would have dinner this evening with a beautiful sunset as a backdrop.

Normally, guests can look on as dinner is prepared on the barbecue and pizza is cooked in the wood-burning oven. However, as we were checking in, a Japanese couple stopped by and asked if they could make reservations for the barbecue dinner. They were told that instead of the barbecue the farm would be serving pasta, beef and vegetables because a group of English pilgrims insisted on being served pasta that night. Darn those English! 

During my travels I have been lucky enough to stay at some of the finest hotels and resorts in the world. The Farm and Farmhouse complex known as La Selvella in my opinion ranks as one of the best. Maybe my judgement was compromised due to fatigue and delirium after hiking over 17 miles with more than a 3000-foot elevation change. But I am obviously not the only one who thinks this place is special. 

While Davis and I were at the pool a South Korean family showed up. I started talking to the mother and their stay was part of a two-week family trip to Europe. Her English was very good. So, I asked about that. She spent the early part of her life in Columbus Ohio as both of her parents pursued PhDs. And she also spent 8 years in Paris. So, she was well educated and well-travelled. On this trip they were visiting London, Paris, Florence and Rome. They decided to spend two nights in Tuscany. This was the property they chose. 

I learned from Morena, the owner, that she and her husband bought the 300-acre property 30 years ago and began to slowly improve the buildings and operate it as a farm. Not only does the farm have livestock, but it also produces olives, wheat, and other crops. The farmhouse complex with several buildings has 14 guest rooms. And Morena works hard to make each guest happy. And you can tell by her passion that she loves the history of the place, the land, and the people she serves.

This property is not only filled with beauty, but you can tell with all the small touches that it is also filled with love and has a soul. From the friendly dogs who greet you to the charming pet bird named Henry who would sometimes land on guests’ heads, the place does not take itself too seriously. And when you are there, it is hard to take yourself seriously – although some guests do by demanding to be served pasta. At least they were not Americans!

Elizabeth and I own a farm and an AirB&B. We have thought about doing what Morena has done. But there is no way we can pull that off. I did take a lot of photos of the premises for ideas for our own farm.  Her place is truly an inspiration for anyone who wants to create a farming utopia. La Selvella is the gold standard for hospitality and for agritourism.

Davis and I agreed that we would come back to this property in a heartbeat. In a word, it was magical – a fitting end to a magical day.