“The People We Meet” – Days 5 to 9 from Basque Trip

8.15.23

Dear James,

Here is the second installment of “The People We Meet” from my Basque Trip. It covers Days 5 to 9.

Day 5 – The Pyrenees – The Englishman.

On day 5 we took a taxi from Biarritz to Saint Jean Pied de Port, the starting spot for the French Camino. From there, a pilgrim can hike 33 days to Santiago de Compostela, home of Saint James’ remains.  Pete and I would only hike to Pamplona, Spain, home of “The Running of the Bulls.”

On that first day as we hiked over the top of the French Pyrenees into Spain, we met an Englishman who had been the principal of the largest secondary school in England. At 78 years old, he still travels extensively and called himself a “permanent post-graduate student.” And he kept up with us as we trekked the 17 miles with a 7,000-foot elevation change. As we walked together, it seemed appropriate that much of our discussion centered on history. He had visited many of the Civil War Battlefields in the United States. I really enjoyed the company of this gentleman, who had dedicated and spent most of his life around young people. And maybe, because of that, he still had the ability to wander and wonder.

Day 6 – The Girls at the Hostel

Pete and I lodged at a small hostel during our second evening on the Camino. Hostels usually offer group dinners. So, at this hostel we shared a meal with three college age women from Boston and a young woman from Lithuania. As we enjoyed the roasted chicken and grilled vegetables washed down with local wine, we enjoyed learning each other’s stories. The young woman from Lithuania spoke English very well. Her desire to choose optimism and hope about the future of her country made me optimistic about the future. It reminded by of a quote from one of my heroes, Michael J. Fox, “With Gratitude, Optimism Is Sustainable.” Pete and I loved this group’s energy and intellectual curiosity. After dinner the girls from Boston produced a deck of cards, and I got thoroughly pummeled playing Hearts. And I could have cared less.  

Day 7- The Cheese Man in Pamplona

On our last day on the Camino, we started on the trail early and reached the outskirts of Pamplona by 1 pm. While filling our water bottles at a fountain in a small square, we noticed an outdoor market. We walked over. Pete bought some fruit, and I bought a banana and some beautiful cherries. As we walked to a bench beneath a tree, I noticed a cheese stand. I walked over. I watched a local point to one of the large wheels of cheese. After he ordered, I chose the same wheel. As I was about to pay for my wedge of cheese, the owner walked up and shook his head. He would not take my money. He spoke no English but pointed to the Saint James Shell on my backpack. He pointed to the cross around his neck, and then to my shell, and then made the prayer sign. He was signaling that I say a prayer for him when I reached Santiago de Compostela. I did not have the heart to communicate to him that I was not going there. Besides, he seemed so happy to do this for me. So, I took my wedge of cheese and walked back to Pete sitting on the bench and proceeded to eat my cherries and cheese. It would have been wonderful if the encounter had ended there.

However, the owner was now walking over to us with a knife in his hand. He pointed to his knife and then at my cheese. He was offering to slice my cheese so that I could eat it the proper way. So, he cut several thin slices, and with a big smile on his face, he made it clear that I would now enjoy the full flavor that his cheese had to offer. He waited there until I had bitten into one of the thin slices he had carved. And he was right! The cheese, when sliced thinly, tasted even better. I smiled and gave him the thumbs up. Here was a person who demonstrated the importance of loving one’s craft and finding the joy it can bring to others.   I ate half of the cheese and put the rest in my backpack to savor (sliced of course) for later in the trip.

Day 8- San Sebastián – The Woman from Irun

After a day in Pamplona, we arrived in San Sebastián by bus. We walked across the Rio Guadalquivir, which winds through this beautiful city before it empties into the Bay of Biscay. After a few blocks we arrived at our hotel.  Upon stating my name, the woman at the welcome desk said, “we have been expecting you Mr. Franklin, and the luggage you left with us several days ago is in your room.” What a welcome!

As Pete and I conversed with this woman, I relayed that it had been nice to be able to leave my luggage at the hotel for part of the trip so that I could walk the Camino with only my small backpack. And that it was also nice to be able to walk across the border from Irun, Spain into France. She then asked, “Did you like Irun?” I said, “Yes, very much.”  She proudly said, “I am from Irun!”  It must have been so pleasing to this woman to hear an American tourist say how much he had enjoyed walking through her hometown. She embraced her hometown, even though it is overshadowed by the better-known and more picturesque cities along this beautiful coast.

Day 9 – The Restaurant Owner in Getaria, Spain

While in San Sebastián, Pete and I took a private wine tour near the fishing village of Getaria. Afterwards, our guide suggested an early lunch (before the restaurant officially opened) at his favorite eatery overlooking the harbor.  As we entered, the owner came up to us, shook our hands and brought us into his kitchen. He proudly introduced his staff, which appeared to be mostly family members. He then brought us to a large metal fridge. He pulled out various trays of freshly caught fish. He wanted us to pick the fish we would eat for lunch. Our guide suggested the large Talbot, which we would all share. 

Before we left the kitchen, the owner enthusiastically showed us the large stone fire pit where our fish would be cooked over charcoal. And when the beautifully cooked fish arrived, we devoured it. Our guide even showed us how to suck the bones. It was amazing – maybe the best fish dish ever. The owner represented yet another local proud of his creation. And like the cheese man, his enthusiasm and joy for life was contagious.

Yours, Papa J