People We Meet – Part 3 – 8.16.23

Dear James,

Here is the third installment of “The People We Meet” from my Basque Trip. It covers the cycling part of my trip in the French Pyrenees and the Rioja Region – days 10 through 15.

Day 10 – The Swimmers in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France

We left San Sebastián early in the morning, took a train across the border to Biarritz, where we met our Cycling Group. We cycled 16 miles to Jean-de-Luz, a beautiful French Basque Coastal town. I decided to go for a swim. Because it was later in the day, the only other swimmers were two teenage boys jumping off of a diving platform located 75 yards offshore.  So, I decided to join them.

Before I got to the platform, the boys swam back to shore. As I swam closer, I saw that the platform was much higher off the water than it looked from shore. Determined to emulate the boys, I climbed up the ladder, stood on the metal platform and looked down at the choppy water located 25 feet below. I hesitated but made the jump. It was a thrill. So, I did it again. As I swam back to shore, I silently thanked those boys for being there. Sometimes it takes others to show us the way. And sometimes we are the ones to show the way. If they had not been there jumping off of the platform, I would not have taken those thrilling jumps into the Bay of Biscay!

Day 11 – The Perfume Seller in Espelette

During our first day of cycling through the French Pyrenees, we stopped to have lunch in Espelette. As we walked around the small village, we spotted a Basque soap and perfume store. The salesperson, a soft-spoken middle-aged French woman, spoke very English.  But we managed to communicate that we wanted to buy some perfume. We sniffed a few fragrances including her favorite.  Through broken English she communicated how proud she was that this line of cosmetics was all produced in the Basque Region. As I watched her joyfully box and wrap our purchases, I was reminded of the funny scene in “Love Actually” where the salesclerk methodically wraps a gift with flourish while the customer waits impatiently. It is good to love what you do.

Day 12 – Bidarray, France – The Singers

On our last night in the French Pyrenees, we ate dinner in the small village of Bidarray. During dinner we were serenaded by a group of old men accompanied by an accordion. As they urged our group to sing along, which we did, we saw how much these older men enjoyed singing and performing. So, as we fed our hungry bodies after miles of cycling, we also fed our souls with the music from these old French guys.

Day 13 – The Lawyer and The Nurse in Torres del Rio

On Day 13 we shuttled from the French Pyrenees to the Rioja region of Spain. It was a hot day. So, as I guided my bike at the end of my late morning ride into the small village of Torres del Rio, located on the Camino, I was ready for some food and refreshment.

It is during meals that we get to know our fellow travelers the most. So, as we ate our beautifully prepared lunch and drank chilled red wine, I learned more about the lawyer from Atlanta who sued doctors, and the nurse from Virginia who had spent much of her career helping to deliver babies. Because your mom is a Maternal and Fetal Medicine doctor, it was inevitable that we would end up discussing births. All I can say about the conversation that occurred between this former banker, the lawyer and the nurse is that it was filled with understanding and grace. We truly listened to each other without judgement.  As I walked out into the hot Spanish sun to start my afternoon ride, I had a newfound respect for the two women I had just shared a meal with.

Day 14 – The Wine Guide in Elciego

While in the Rioja region, our base was the small town of Elciego, which is the headquarters of a large wine company. While there we toured the company’s facilities. I asked our guide how she had become a tour guide for a wine company, which you could tell she loved. Having held other jobs for other companies, she was able to truly appreciate the culture there. For the rest of the tour, I could see how that gratitude translated to optimism. And that positive energy was the reason she was acting as an ambassador for the company. A positive attitude is everything.

Day 15 – The Walker in a Rioja Vineyard

During our last morning in the Rioja Region, we cycled 16 miles through the hills and vineyards surrounding Elciego. It was the perfect last ride. As I pedaled through the hills and vineyards, I reached a hill with an amazing view of our unique hotel and the town below. So, I stopped to take in the view and to take a much-deserved water break.

As I stood on the hill gazing at the scenery below, I noticed a very old man walking up the path towards me. Being in no hurry I decided to wait until he reached me at the top of the hill before launching myself down the steep decline. As he approached, he nodded. And as he came closer, he gestured and said something that I interpreted as “nice view, isn’t it.” I smiled, nodded and gave the thumbs up sign.

I took another swig from my water bottle, turned and watched this old Spanish guy continue his solitary walk through the vineyard – destination unknown. I got the impression that his walk was not about the destination – it was all about the journey itself. As my favorite blogger Seth Godin states, “Ride your own bike. Life is not a bike race, it’s a bike ride. There is no winning, just the riding.”

Yours, Papa J