Oregon Northern Coast 8.21.21

After arriving in Portland, I picked up my rental car and headed to the northern coast of Oregon over Saddle Mountain via highway 26. After arriving in the small coastal village of Seaside, I checked into my room, changed, and walked and ran on the expansive beach and hiked part of Tillamook Trail in Ecola State Park. Tillamook was the name of the Indian tribes who once lived here. Highlights included wading in the cold Pacific Ocean and finding numerous “sand dollars” on the beach. I then drove the 9 miles to the town of Cannon Beach, walked to Haystack Rock, and had a beer and dinner at Pelican Brewing Company.

The next morning, I awoke early and drove to Ecola State Park, arriving at 6:45 a.m. to start my 3 mile hike on Clatsop Trail. Joining me were some early surfers preparing to surf Indian Beach. Located between Seaside and Cannon Beach, Ecola stretches along 9 miles of coastline, offering breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean.  As part of their coastal exploration in 1806, William Clark of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, described the views from the bluffs of what is now Ecola State Park as the “grandest and most pleasing prospect” he had ever surveyed. 

During my hike, I viewed secluded coves, forests of huge Sitka Spruce with a floor of dense fern, and even a long abandoned lighthouse. 

After finishing my hike at 8:30 a.m., I walked on Indian Beach, hopped into my car and arrived at Oswald West State Park at 9 a.m. to hike Cape Falcon Trail, a 5 mile hike that was nothing less than spectacular. Thanks Deirdre Donovan for recommending this hike!

I finished the hike at the memorial of Matt Kramer, a local reporter who saved the beaches of Oregon as a public domain. Oregonians ability to freely enjoy their beaches was officially protected in 1913 when Oregon established the state’s 362 miles of shoreline as a public highway. However, due to a loophole, it only applied to the wet-sand portions of the beaches, which was exploited in 1966 by the owner of a Cannon Beach hotel, who blocked off a section of the beach to all but the hotel guests. 

In response, statewide public pressure, due to the reporting of Matt Kramer, forced the state legislature to introduce two bills. The bills mimicked a Texas law that recognized the public’s continued use of private beach land as a permanent right. Commonly known as the Beach Bill, it established a permanent public beach easement, regardless of ownership and to provide public access to the beaches at routine intervals. The bills became law in 1967. Unfortunately, many states do not have similar laws allowing access to some of our country’s most beautiful resources.

After finishing my hike at 11:15, I walked short sands beach and watched what must have been over 30 surfers enjoying the waves coming in. I then drove to Tillamook, hoping to get some ice cream at Tillamook Creamery. However, the line was too long, so I settled for a flavored coffee at one of the ubiquitous coffee shacks that dot the roads of Oregon. I then headed south on highway 101 to take a scenic inland route to Willamette Valley. But just south of Tillamook, I saw an enormous hangar that had been converted to an air museum. So, I pulled off the road and learned about a chapter of WW II that I did not know existed. 

Constructed by the US Navy in 1942, along with 17 other wooden hangars around the U.S. coastline, these enormous hangars were used to house k-class blimps being used for anti submarine coast patrol and convoy support. Measuring over 1,000 feet long (over three football fields), 300 feet wide, and 200 feet tall, these giant hangars contain 7 acres of space. The blimps they housed were 250 long and were 80 feet high. With a range of 2,000 miles and the ability to stay aloft for 3 days, their presence off the coasts of the United States detected enemy submarines and kept many convoys safe during the war. A highlight in the hanger was being able to see and touch one of the three remaining F-14 Tomcats that were used during the filming of the movie Top Gun.

After my fill of WW II history, I headed inland to the next segment of my trip – Willamette Valley, the land of Pinot Noirs and home to 600 wineries.