Morocco 2022 – Day 2

Day 2 – Monday

After a morning swim in the hotel pool, breakfast included two types of Moroccan pastries, which were similar to sweet pancakes and savory pancakes. They were so good I will probably have them again tomorrow. 

After breakfast, I met Mohammed and we walked to Le Jardin Secret, or the Secret Garden.  A wonderful example of Moroccan architecture, the structure dates from the late 1500s, when the sultan of Morocco decided to build a monumental complex in this part of the medina, then occupied by a small Jewish settlement. Among the many engineering marvels of the complex was the water system used to water the gardens. Using gravity, it pulled water from the Atlas Mountains over 90 miles away. 

Sorry about the nerdy narrative that follows, but it is impressive when an individual decides to save a national treasure. The ruling Sultan in 1912 ceded sovereignty of Morocco to France, which would last until 1957, when Morocco would gain independence again. The French occupation caused the building complex to change ownership several times, eventually leading to neglect for over 75 years. It was finally restored in 2016 by a local citizen (a very wealthy one obviously) and now showcases Islamic art and architecture, as well as the beautiful gardens. In reading the history of the four-year restoration project, I am reminded of the recent 2-year renovation of the farmhouse and loft building at Poor Creek Farm. The photographs, with all the undergrowth and trash that had to be removed, look similar to Poor Creek Farm when we bought it. I kid you not! 

Like all Muslim buildings, the focus of The Secret Garden Complex is on the interior with gardens and courtyards. If you see a building in Morocco with balconies, it was either built by the French or Jews. More on Muslims – totally random, they also love cats. I asked Mohammed why. Unlike dogs, who the Muslims believe chase away angels with their barking, cats, being quiet, are considered special. They also happen to be very clean. This makes sense since the Islamic culture is almost neurotic on its emphasis on cleanliness. I do think the thing with cats goes back to even before the rise of Islam. The Egyptians believed cats were magical creatures, capable of bringing good luck to the people who housed them. So, there you go. Well, I don’t care what the Egyptians think. I am still a dog person – and I love my mutt Emmy Lou.

After the secret garden, we visited a University that was built in the 1500s by the same regime that ousted the Portuguese. I was lucky because it had just reopened to the public three weeks ago after going though a major restoration. In fact, this University was built on top of the ruins of the original university, which was built in the 1200’s. Yes, Harvard and William and Mary would not be built for over another 400 years. Hmmm….

After the University tour Mohammed dropped me off for lunch at L’Mida, a stylish rooftop restaurant near the spice bazaar with views of the Atlas Mountain Range. Speaking of bazaars, after lunch we walked through the Medina souks of Marrakech, where each trade and specialty cluster together over alleyways and squares. The alleyways reminded me of the chase scene in The Bourne Ultimatum, which takes place in Tangier, another Morocco city. Without Mohammed as a guide, I definitely would have gotten lost in the maze of alleyways.

We continued our afternoon hike to the Jardin Majorelle. The garden was a gift to Marrakech from Yves-Saint Laurent. The designer bought it to save it from being demolished by developers. Purchased from the painter Jacques Majorelle, the garden is adorned with Majorelle blue, the color named for him.  First exposed to Marrakech in 1966, Yves-Saint Laurent would eventually move here and lived in the Majorelle complex for several years.   To keep the Yves-Saint Laurent theme going, we visited the Yves-Saint Laurent Museum, one of two in the world. The other is in France. The museum highlights the life work of the designer, his works and his connection to Marrakech. After learning his story and his struggles, I have a newfound respect for a man who was literally a genius. I may share more on him in a later post.

Oh yes, I also managed to get some shopping in during the afternoon. Exhausted from walking (walked 7 miles), shopping, talking and learning, I returned to my hotel to relax, swim, and enjoy a well deserved massage at my hotel. I had another amazing dinner before turning in for the night, capped off by, what else, chocolate truffles and sweetened mint tea.  I have to admit, I ordered just the mint tea. I guess truffles come with mint tea when you order it after dinner! 

I learned so much about Morocco and Islam culture from Mohammed during our sojourn through the Medina today, including the thing about cats. I could share so much more, but I do not even know where to begin, so I won’t even try.