Italy/Greece Day 3 – May 13th – Pompeii

Today Elizabeth and I join the Vermont couple we met at the Rome Train station on Day 1 for a 2.5 hour private tour of Pompeii.

But first, I went on an early morning run in Sorrento. Other than a few tourists pulling their luggage to the train station, the city was quiet and all folded up. I always love running early in the morning to experience a city before it unfolds for the tourists. In fact, you would hardly recognize some of the streets when no shops are open and no chairs are on the streets creating street-side cafes.

After my run, we relaxed the rest of the morning and took the 11:50 local train from Sorrento to Pompeii.

Before it was destroyed, Pompeii was an integral part of Rome and Roman Culture and the Bay of Naples was considered a key port for the empire. In fact, many in the upper crust of Rome society had huge estates in Pompeii along the Bay of Naples.

It was a town of 15,000 to 20,000 residents with lots of ornate public buildings and luxurious private houses with lavish decorations and furnishings. We would explore several of these during our tour.

When we arrived I was a bit shocked at how huge the site was. Even though much of the 5-square mile city remains un-excavated, the sheer number of buildings and roads is impressive. You could spend several days here. So, our guide focused on things that you cannot find at other Roman ruins. He also pointed out technology and engineering concepts that greatly improved daily life. For example, we learned that Britain was important to Rome because that was the source of lead that Rome used for lead pipes, which were used throughout the city to transfer water. There are many other fun facts that I can point to, but I am not going to nerd out and explain many of the other engineering feats that the Romans figured out.

We did not visit the amphitheater, which seats 20,000 people, compared to the Roman Coliseum, which seats over 70,000. However, we did focus on public baths, fast food stations, wine bars, bakeries, and living quarters. It was actually mind blowing to think how high the quality of life was for those who lived in Roman cities similar to Pompeii compared to the rest of the world during that period.

Pompeii is also fascinating because organic remains, including wooden objects and human bodies, were interred in the ash; and their eventual decay created cavities which allowed archaeologists to fill those cavities with plaster to create moulds of figures in their final moments of life.

The inhabitants of Pompeii never knew they were living 6 miles from an active volcano. In fact, they thought of the mountain as a protector. So, when the mountain rumbled and day became night due to the falling pumice blocking out the sun; and as the mountain spewed forth hot toxic gases, most inhabitants must have thought the world was coming to an end.

Instead of trying to flee on roads clogged with several feet of pumice, many huddled in their homes. And when the final eruption occurred, roofs caved in from the weight of the ash and rock, burying those inside, which is why none of the structures at the site have roofs.

Hearing about the engineering feats and daily life routines was great. And our guide saved viewing the moulds until the end. I am glad he did because it makes you rather sad. The two moulds of figures that bothered me the most was the chained dog who could not flee and the infant.

According to our guide, who is a 4th generation Pompeii guide, Pompeii is the second most visited site in Italy, trailing only the Roman Coliseum. I will see the Coliseum later on this trip. I cannot imagine it being more interesting or more powerful than this experience.