Intro to Bilbao and Basque Region

Days 1 & 2 – June 15^th and 16th

I am looking forward to spending two weeks in the Basque Region.  I have wanted to visit this region ever since walking the last seven stages of the French Camino in the northwest corner of Spain several years ago. During my 17 days in the region, I will be visiting three of the largest cities in Basque (Bilbao, San Sebastian and Pamplona), while also seeing a number of small villages on my hike on the first three stages of the French Camino and my cycling trip with Backroads through the Pyrenees. 

Located in the western Pyrenees, The Basque Region is home to almost 3 million people, who may be the least assimilated descendants of pre-historic peoples in Europe. Owning the oldest surviving language in Europe, they have kept most of their customs and culture. Straddling Spain and France, the Basque Region is slightly smaller than the size of Massachusetts. The Basque people own a rich heritage of boating, fishing and sheep and cow farming – and drinking wine. Fascinating is that large Basque populations can be found in the USA in Bakersfield, California, Boise Idaho and Miami, Florida.

I will fly to Madrid and take a short flight to Bilbao, the largest city in the Basque Region. After arriving at noon, I will settle into the Gran Hotel Domine Bilbao, and walk the Old town. The evening activities include a 3-hour Bilbao Foodie Tour. This will be my introduction to “Pintxos,” pronounced Pinchos. The Pintxos culture in Basque is very unique. Similar to tapas, they are available in walk-in bar-like restaurants. I know the Foodie tour will be amazing. I do this on the first eve of most of my trips because it is a quick and fun way to get introduced to the region and culture.  Hosts are usually well-educated, knowledgeable and passionate about their country and culture.

Day 3 – Saturday, June 17^th

Like the Catalonia region of Spain that contains Barcelona, the Basque region of Spain is very independent minded (I was in Barcelona in 2019 when Catalonia almost voted to leave Spain). And the Basque Region of Spain may be even more independent minded. It could easily have been a separate country if not for internal quarrelling among different factions and tribes. So, with no real unity, much of the French portion of Basque became a part of France in the mid-1400s with the Spanish part of Basque getting absorbed into Spain in the early 1500’s. The remaining independent territory north of the Pyrenees became French in the 1620s.

Despite these annexations, the Basque region went through increased religious, ideological and national homogenization. So, by the end of the 1800s, Basque nationalism was firmly rooted in the region with strong separatist movements whose aim was to form a separate nation that would unite all Basques – both French and Spanish. Remember, Italy and Germany did not become countries until the 1860’s. And most of the Baltic states did not become countries until the 1990’s and later.  

So, after several hundred years, the Spanish part of the Basque finally gained its independence in 1936 during the Spanish Civil War. However, this was short lived when Basque troops surrendered to General Franco. Some believe that the surrender was partly due to the bombing of the small town of Guernica by Franco and the German Luftwaffe in April of 1937.  That bombing, which was directed at innocent civilians, mostly women and children, inspired Picasso to create what some say is his most famous painting – “Guernica.” Stretching 12 by 25 feet, the mural depicts the brutal bombing with a cubist style using only grey, black and white paints.  I saw the painting in Madrid.  As a statement on the brutality of war, it is very emotive and extremely powerful.

Once in power, Franco stripped the Basque people of most of their liberties and outlawed their language. After WW II, Basque attempted to gain recognition from the United States Government as a separate republic, but the Fascist dictator Franco had become an American ally in the context of the Cold War, depriving the Basque Government of any chance of power in the Basque Country. Unfortunately, the United States has a long and checkered history of supporting brutal dictators like Franco when doing so furthers U.S. geopolitical and economic interests.

I will actually visit the town of Guernica (also spelled Gernika). On day 2, I will leave Bilbao at 8:00 a.m., and doing a big circle – drive over the famous Vizcaya Bridge, stopping to hike on the remote rocky outcrop of Gaztelugatxe, which sticks out into the Bay of Biscay, before stopping to eat at the fishing village of Bermeo on the coast. After Bermeo, I will visit Guernica, which is considered the spiritual center of the Basque Region.  So, I will go to the Vizcaya Bridge to be inspired, the rocky outpost of Gaztelugatxe to hike, Bermeo to eat, and Gernika to reflect. Interestingly, this loop, which is about 100 miles, will be the first leg of the Tour de France this year, which I will get to attend this event during the final portion of my trip on July 1^st!

Another reason I really wanted to visit Guernica was due to the novel “Guernica”, which I just finished.  It is about the Basque people of Guernica village before the terrible bombing and how the village came together afterwards. I also just finished Hemmingway’s novel “The Sun Also Rises”, which takes place mostly in the Basque Region.  Both novels portray the region as beautiful and the people as open and friendly.  Known for its cycling, hiking and trout fishing in the mountains, its bullfighting in Pamplona, and its boating, beaches, seafood and “Pintxos,” on the coast, the Basque region has become a favorite tourist destination, with the towns of Bilbao (home to the world-famous Bilbao Guggenheim Museum) and San Sebastian/Donostia (home to beautiful beaches and Michelin rated restaurants) leading the way. I am looking forward to eating, drinking, hiking, and cycling my way through Basque, but also seeing and experiencing all this region has to offer.