Canadian Rockies 2024
Here it goes…another wonderful adventure begins. But to be honest, I had mixed emotions about this trip. As Elizabeth dropped me off at the airport, I experienced the same pangs of emotion I had when we were dating and we would go off to our separate colleges knowing that we would not see each other for some time. So, I was a little melancholy starting out on this trip. But that soon evaporated as this wonderful adventure to the Canadian Rockies, Southern Alaska, and Seattle unfolded.
Sunday, August 18th – Exploring Banff
My day started with breakfast at the Calgary airport Hampton Inn, where I struck up a conversation with a married Indian couple from Toronto. They were making the 36-hour car trek from Toronto to their ultimate destination of Vancouver. I asked if children were traveling with them and they responded, “Yes, three.” I smiled and said, “And you are still talking to each other!” The wife, who had been very quiet up until this point, burst out laughing. Our conversation was very cordial and warm after that. So, my adventure started out with a great conversation with strangers and unbeknownst to me at the time, would end that way.
After taking the 10 a.m. shuttle from Calgary heading west into the Rocky Mountains to the town of Banff in Banff National Park, arrived at the Rundlestone Lodge, my hotel for the evening.
I spent the early afternoon exploring Banff, eating lunch and walking along the Bow River, which is known for its blue-green waters. I also took the Banff Gondola to the top of Sulphur Mountain, which has views of Banff, the Bow Valley and 360 degree views of six mountain ranges within the Rockies. The Banff Gondola ride and the interpretive center at the top is considered one of the top attractions of Banff.
Banff IS popular. I read the local paper, Rocky Mountain Outlook, which contained several articles laying out the challenges that the tourism industry brings to the area, especially traffic. One article even insinuated that this area is over-visited. Heaven forbid! But more than 8.3 million vehicles go through Banff National Park each year with a 71% increase in Lake Louise alone during the past 10 years. There is a reason for this. As my father-in-law stated, “This part of the Rockies is one of the most beautiful places on earth – more beautiful than Alaska.” That may or may not be true. Regardless, I am already awed by its beauty.
Monday, August 19th – Cycling to Lake Minnewanka and Mount Norquay
One of my favorite things to do when I travel is to wake up early and go for a run. My best travel memories include running in the morning through Florence in 2013 and walking Venice in 2018 as the sun rises and the streets are completely empty other than a shopkeeper here and there opening a shop – and it’s usually a bakery, which is an added bonus. So, I got up early and ran this morning through Banff. And Banff Avenue, which gets 30,000 pedestrians a day during this time of year, was completely empty, other than a few other runners. And sure enough, the Uprising Bakery on Banff Avenue was open. So, before I got to the trail along the Bow River, I stopped and ordered a coffee and a Curry Cauliflower Danish. It was sublime. As I sat at the window seat looking out onto Banff Avenue, I saw the town slowly wake up. Afterwards I ran along the Bow River and took some amazing photos.
I met our Backroads group at 9 a.m. at Rundlestone Lodge. There were 20 of us on the trip coming from all over the country, including California and NYC. And it turned out to be a wonderful group to travel with. I especially enjoyed getting to know the couples from NYC, Tucson Arizona, and Santa Monica, California. But to be honest, I enjoyed everyone’s company. It was a great group. After getting fitted for our bikes we pedaled through Banff, cycled along a section of the Bow River, and completed a surprisingly spectacular several mile loop around the Banff Springs Golf course. We then went back through Banff and headed to Lake Minnewanka, the largest body of water in Banff National Park. I stopped several times along the shore of the Lake to take photos. I could not help myself – it was so beautiful.
After the lake portion, we met up for one of Backroads’ bountiful and beautiful picnics. A highlight was fresh cherry pie. Afterwards, we cycled back towards Banff in the valley with views of several mountains along the way, and then did a 3.5 mile climb to the stunning lookout on Mount Norquay. Total mileage for the day was 32 miles.
After dinner at one of the excellent restaurants in Banff, we spent the night at Rimrock Resort Hotel. Located on Sulphur Mountain, with beautiful views of Bow Valley and the surrounding Rockies, Rimrock is considered a World’s Best Hotel by Travel and Leisure. www.rimrockresort.com
Tuesday, August 20th – Cycling Bow River Valley to Lake Louise
The only thing that might be better than a view of the mountains at sunset is a view of the mountains at sunrise. My day started out with an amazing sunrise view of the town of Banff below and the surrounding mountains from my hotel room. So, I sipped my coffee in bed and soaked it all in.
After a kick-ass breakfast that included fresh yogurt, overnight oats, hot smoked salmon, cured veal, olives, kimchi and a “chocolate avalanche” pastry, I met my Backroads group to shuttle to the Cave and Basin National Historic Site. The site was sacred to indigenous peoples in the area for thousands of years, including the Stoney Nakota. However, during 1883, three railway workers happened upon the thermal springs, sparking a series of events that led to the creation of the first national park in Canada.
After our visit to the thermal waters, we biked 24 miles on the Bow Valley Parkway, over rolling hills, through virgin forests, and past the soaring peaks of Pilot, Storm, and Castle Mountains. We stopped at a scenic overlook on the Parkway to enjoy our packed lunches. We then biked another 15 miles to the hamlet of Lake Louise. To avoid the crowds, we spent the night at the award-winning Post Hotel and Spa, located on the Bow and Pipestone Rivers. Our dinner that night at the hotel was amazing. And now I know why. Travel and Leisure praised the hotel’s dining room as one of the best hotel dining experiences in North America. www.posthotel.com.
After 71 miles of cycling in two days, our next three days would be spent hiking.
August 21 & 22 Hiking Lake Louise and Moraine Lake
Located 5,700 feet above sea level and a World Heritage site, Lake Louise is one of the most photographed areas of the Rockies, partly due to the reflection of Mount Victoria in its shimmering blue waters. We hiked up to the famous Plain of Six Glaciers Tea House, with views of Mount Victoria and Victoria Glacier. However, because it rained all day – and it was cold – we did not have the views – but still a good hike. After lunch at the Tea House that included tea, sandwiches and amazing apple cinnamon cake, we hiked to Lake Agnes and enjoyed some spectacular views of Lake Louise on the way down. The hike was 8.2 miles with a 2,000 foot elevation gain.
The next day, August 22nd, we shuttled to the iconic Moraine Lake, known as the jewel of Banff National Park.
We began our 7.3 mile hike with a 2,400 foot elevation gain. Because the day’s weather was much better than the previous day, we had amazing views of the Wenkchemma Peaks which consists of 10 glaciated mountains. This panorama used to be featured on Canada’s twenty-dollar bill. After more climbing, we had lunch on the banks of the Minnestimma Lake before continuing to the top of Sentinel Pass for a jaw-dropping panoramic view of the Valley of the Ten Peaks and Paradise Valley. We then shuttled to Emerald Lake Lodge in Yoho National Park. Built of hand-hewn timber at the turn of the 20th century, it is located above the spectacular tree rimmed Emerald Lake.
Final two days – August 23 and 24 – Emerald Lake and Kicking Horse River
On our first day at Emerald Lake I decided to hike the three miles around Emerald Lake before the sun rose. It was so peaceful – not another soul on the trail other than one runner. That would change quickly as the tourists began to pour in later in the day. After breakfast, my friend Pete and I canoed for one hour on the lake. Later in the day I did a short hike to Peaceful Pond before spending the early afternoon relaxing and reading in my cabin in the woods.
It was decided by several of us that we would meet in our bathing suits at the Bridge that leads to the Emerald Lake Lodge and jump into the Lake. I would never jump into an Alpine Lake on my own. But buoyed by 11 of my Backroads buddies, I did it with this group of adventurous travelers. Yet another great memory with my good friend Pete.
We spent our last night together enjoying drinks on the balcony overlooking Emerald Lake and a final festive dinner at the Lodge.
The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we shuttled 45 minutes to Kicking Horse River, where we put on wet suits over our bathing suits and climbed into sturdy rafts, before navigating a range of white water (Class II-IV) with some help from our guides.
The white water rafting was definitely a highlight of the trip! Within minutes of getting on the river, the front of the boat hit a wall of water that washed completely over our heads, totally soaking us. Yes, I was in the front of the boat! At 42 degrees, the cold water was invigorating, to say the least. However, the wetsuits did their thing and I never felt chilled. Unfortunately, they discouraged taking phones on the rafts because of possible water damage. So, photos are from company – great memories.
After an hour on the river, we shuttled back to Banff, where I caught a 2:30 pm shuttle back to Calgary, where I spent the night. I loved Calgary, but more on that in the next post.
