Basque Trip June 16-18, 2023

After flying into Madrid and taking a short flight to Bilbao, I settled into the Gran Hotel Domine Bilbao, located just across the street from the Bilbao Guggenheim Museum, which I visited in the afternoon. The inside of the Guggenheim is as beautiful and unusual as the outside. Without a doubt it is the most kinetic museum I have ever visited. It is just plain fun to walk and explore. The art is a bonus because the building itself is a masterpiece. Designed by Canadian American architect Frank Gehry, the building is groundbreaking architecturally and launched Frank Gehry’s career.  In his 90’s, he is still designing. Later in the trip, I will be staying in a hotel that he designed. I cannot wait.

That evening I participated in a 3-hour Bilbao Foodie Tour.  And our host Adria was exceptional. Both passionate and patient, he was a joy to be with. Equally enjoyable were my companions on this tour, consisting of three German couples from the Frankfurt area, three English women from Brighton and Manchester, and a tourist from Madrid. We visited 5 Pintxo Bars in three different neighborhoods and had wine or cider at each, which may help explain why we had so much fun!

The next day I did a group tour that included a 100 mile circle – visiting the Vizcaya Bridge, famous for its unique design, stopping at a 13th century castle, visiting the remote rocky outcrop of Gaztelugatxe, which sticks out into the Bay of Biscay, and enjoying – you guessed it – more pintxos at the fishing village of Bermeo. After Bermeo, I visited Guernica ( also spelled Gernika in Basque). Today I really got an appreciation for how mountainous and hilly this region is.

With its mighty old Oak Tree, Guernica is considered the spiritual center of the Basque Region.  The oak tree is such a symbol because as early as the 12th century representatives from different areas of the Basque Region would meet there under an enormous oak tree to make important decisions. John Adams described it as one of the oldest representative governments in the world. There is bust of him in Bilbao. 

So, I visited Vizcaya Bridge to be impressed, the rocky outpost of Gaztelugatxe to admire, Bermeo to eat, and Gernika to reflect. While navigating this loop, we saw so many cyclists.  And the loop we travelled today will be the first leg of the 2023 Tour de France, which I will attend during the final portion of my trip. Viva Tour de France!

I ended my first full day in Basque by enjoying a Martini at a rooftop bar overlooking the Guggenheim and enjoying anchovies from Bermio. I could go home now and feel like I have already experienced much of Basque, but thankfully the trip is just getting started. 

On Sunday morning (Fathers Day) – my third day – I travelled from the Spanish Basque to the French Basque. After spending the  morning in Bilbao I took the 11 a.m. bus from Bilboa to San Sebastian. Because we have to carry everything during our 3-day 45 mile hike on the Camino on days 5-7, I dropped off my main luggage (a duffel bag) at the Hotel Arbaso in San Sebastian, which is where we will stay later in the trip. As soon as I walked in they asked if I was checking in and I said “No, I am checking in on Friday but am leaving a piece of luggage with you.” And they said, you must be Mr. Franklin. We have been waiting for you.” I was completely blown away. If that is the type of service I will get during my stay later in the trip, I cannot wait. 

So, with my much smaller Day Pack, I spent almost 5 hours in San Sebastián. I packed a lot in – hiking up the big hill to the castle that overlooks both beaches, strolling through the old town and stopping at two pintxo bars. I also  strolled along the river and walked the beautiful promenade along the beach.  By walking to the bus station in Bilbao, walking in San Sebastián and walking into France from the Spanish train station to the French train station, I would walk more than 10 miles today – good urban hiking I would say! And good practice for the Camino! I left San Sebastián at 5 pm to take the  train to Irun, Spain, which is next to the French border. I then walked 1.7 miles to the train station in Hendaye, France. In doing so I walked the part of the route of the 2023 Tour de France that crosses into France from Spain. I may miss that on TV because I will be flying home that day. I then caught a French train to Biarritz, located on the coast. Because it began to rain, I called it a day after checking into the  Sofitel Biarritz Le Miramar Thalassa, located on the beach.

Although I had to take a bus, two trains, and walk a little, my total cost to travel from Bilbao, Spain to Biarritz, France was 21 euros – about $23. The most expensive part of the trip was the 3-mile 18-euro taxi ride from the Biarritz train station to my hotel. I was tempted to walk, but because it was raining I splurged. After spending tomorrow in Biarritz, my friend Pete and I begin our hike on “The French Way” from St. Jean Pied de Port to Pamplona. We will be in Pamplona just before “The Running of the Bulls.”